![]() ![]() Panasonic and is compatible with the following camera models:įZ25, FZ30, FZ50, FZ100, FZ150, FZ200, FZ1000, etc. This connector can be found in the DMW-RS1 and DMW-RSL1 remote control from Resistors are used to choose the function. As shown in the picture above, only the shaft and the first Panasonic/Lumix goes an unusual way and uses just one wire to control the focusĪnd the shutter. This type fits the D70s (not D70!) and D80. With three different types, Nikon is the unbeaten leader in inventing remote release connectors. ![]() Hasselblad uses the same 2.5mm stereo jack connector as Pentax and the smallerĬanons. Shown above will also work with a microUSB plug instead of the miniUSB.įUJIFILM X-T1, X-T10, X-T20, X-E2, X-M1, X-A2, X-A1, X100T, X30, XQ2, XQ1, MicroUSB-male adapter to connect the older RR-80. This plug isĬommonly used for charging smartphones. This is the successor of the RR-80 with the smaller microUSB plug. The only advantage compared to the RR-80 is the additional compatibility toĪdapters from the RR-80 to the RR-80A plug exist and are probably the only wayįinePix HS50EXR, HS30EXR, HS33EXR, HS25EXR, HS28EXR, HS20EXR, HS22EXR, The RR-80A has a proprietary plug that will be hard to find. The images below show the wiring of an adapter cable to the standardįinePix HS30EXR, HS33EXR, HS25EXR, HS28EXR, HS20EXR, HS22EXR, Plug is offered by bigger electronic component vendors. This DIY friendly connection exists in the models:Ĭameras specified to work with the Fuijfilm RR-80 remote control can beĬontrolled using a miniUSB plug and some additional circuitry. With Canon and Pentax (see above) and cheap remotes designed for these brands This socket also serves as a shutter release socket. Some of the Fujis have the standard 2.5mm jack socket to connect the microphone. The 'official' remote controller with this plug sold by Canon is called RS-60 N3.įuji has currently three types of wired shutter release connectors. ![]() The only way to get the connector is canibalising a cheap remote control. This kind of photography involves hundreds (thousands?) of shutter activations to get a single finished photo so I'm using my trusty old D800 until the shutter gives out.This connector is used with the EOS 10D, 20D, 30D, 40D, 50D, 5D, 5Dmk2, 5Dmk3, 5Dmk4, 5DS, 6D, 7D, 7Dmk2 The workflow back and forth between Helicon Focus and Helicon Remote is pretty seamless, which is good because there is often a lot of trial and error to get the camera, lighting, and rail settings just right.Īlthough Helicon Remote lists the Z6 as a supported camera, I haven't yet given it a test. After all the shots have been taken, you can go directly into Helicon Focus to assemble the final image. And if you have a Stackshot, but don't have a computer running Helicon Remote, you can use the Stackshot to control the camera via the shutter cable.ģ. And if you don't have a Stackshot and you do have an AF lens, you can have Helicon Remote control the focus of the lens for each shot rather than the in-camera focus shift. Helicon Remote displays the LiveView so you can easily set start/end distances, the increment between shots, etc. Both the Stackshot and the camera are tethered to the computer via USB. Helicon Remote to control the Stackshot and the camera. Stackshot automated macro rail for focus stackingĢ. Also, some macro lenses, like my Venus Optics Laowa 25mm f/2.8 2.5-5X Ultra-Macro do not have autofocus so can't be used with Z6 focus shift.įor most of my close-up work, I use the following:ġ. For more exacting work, the use of a macro rail to make incremental changes in the distance between the camera and subject can give better results than in-camera focus bracketing like "focus shift" in the Z-series. The answer has much to do with your subject matter and shooting conditions. Are there other options I should be looking at?
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